Beppu is basically a city-sized sauna, and today we finally got to live out those "ethereal steam plume" photos we’d seen all over social media. It was a day for playing tourist, and Beppu did not disappoint!
From Red Rips to Cobalt Clips:
We started at Blood Pond Hell (500¥). Honestly? A bit of a letdown. It was more of a "red steaming compound" than a park, and—the ultimate tragedy—not a single onsen egg in sight!
Feeling slightly ripped off, we headed to Sea Hell (500¥), which was a total 180. Between the vivid blue geyser, the iron-oxide red pools, and the lotus gardens, it was stunning. Best of all? We got our onsen egg fix while watching the blue pool hiss and steam.
A Number 25 Victory:
Lunch was at Amamichaya, a charming shokudo. I felt a surge of traveler pride when I actually recognized our number being called (Ni-ju-go!). We feasted on toriten (tempura chicken) and a gozen set, but the star of the show was the Zaizen—grilled mochi in red bean soup. Absolute heaven for 4,000¥.
The Snake and the Scenery:
Next, we headed to Kifune Castle for the views. It’s one of the highest points in town, offering a breathtaking vista of the sea, the scorched mountains, and the steaming rooftops of Kannawa.
However, the "compulsory tour" took a turn when we were asked to pray to a white snake in formalin, followed by an invitation to pet a live white snake basking in yellow light. I broke a world record for the fastest retreat behind a pillar. Sorry, Gaido-san—no snake-petting tips from us today!
The Steam-Hunter’s Walk:
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| Seen from the observatory |
After taking a million photos of the "signature steam" at the observatory, we parked at Hyotan and wandered the streets of Kannawa. Seeing steam venting from manholes and drains is magnificent—it feels like the ground is breathing. We ended the stroll by "zoning out" at the Onsen Museum with some cold brews.
Skewer Success:
We wrapped up the day at Ajiniwaka, a tiny mother-daughter yakitori shop. After 10 skewers, an omurice, and a yakitori don, we made an executive travel decision: except for that one "Food Village" disaster, we have eaten like royalty on this trip. We even finished off the curated beer snacks like they were a five-course meal.
Wrap Up:
Today was the perfect mix of tourist kitsch and quiet moments. Whether dodging live snakes or chasing steam vents, Beppu has a way of making you feel like you’re in a different world. It’s the kind of place where you can do everything or absolutely nothing, and both feel like a win.