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The plan:
Leaving the profound historical weight of Nagasaki, the journey shifts, guided by the open horizons of the Ariake Sea. After stopping to admire the coastal iconography of the Floating Torii and the vibrant Inari Shrine, my focus turns to the destination itself. I confess a distinct affinity for cities where water defines the urban heart—places like the storied canals of Amsterdam. Yanagawa promises a uniquely Japanese, quieter iteration of this ideal.
What happened:
Today was my day to drive! This wasn't just an act of generosity; it was a calculated move to grant Pat the coveted passenger-side camera access—a privilege denied while he was navigating.
The Great Road Trip Lottery
The drive began with a high-stakes moment: a frantic, terrifying crossing of four lanes at peak hour to dodge a tram and hit the highway. After that short moment of mortal panic, the rest of the journey was practically a nap. Japan's National Route enforces a strict 50 km/hr limit, turning the entire commute into a gentle, low-speed test of endurance against dozing off.
We passed those famous bus stops that look like various oversized fruits, but the glare of the morning sun prevented any decent photos. Apparently, even the fruit stops are shy before noon.
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Floating Gates and Fickle Shrines
An hour later, we reached the Floating Torii of Ouo. We hit the timing jackpot: low tide. The red torii, dramatically planted on black rocks that sank into the sea, looked like the gateway to an underworld that was currently under renovation. Absolutely spectacular.
Next up: Yutoku Inari Shrine. Their parking lot was truly futuristic, managed by a smart imaging system that recognized our car. Clearly, all the R&D budget went into the parking, because the shrine itself couldn't hold a candle to Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari. We took a half-hearted trot up the path and retreated almost immediately. We came, we saw, we decided to leave.
Lunch in Kashima at 割烹 中央 was... passable. Pat's tempura was fine, and my famous champon (4000 yen) was adequate. Let's just say we didn't linger.
Back in the slow lane to Yanagawa, Pat went wild with the camera, capturing the vast, spent rice fields. At 50 km/hr, you have time to frame every blade of grass.
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Our check-in was memorable: we had to change rooms because the first one smelled suspiciously and intensely of kimchi. The second room was tiny, but hey, at least the fridge smelled neutral. The hotel's famed public bath, judging by the parade of yakuta-clad guests, clearly made up for the room size.
The town center itself was unremarkable, suggesting its better days were long in the past. But then, we found it: a supermarket near the mall with literally all the tofu under the sky. Tofu heaven!
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The day ended gloriously at a highly-rated local izakaya. We were the first customers, meaning we had the undivided, best service in town. It was a mini-feast (5000yen): braised beef, a beef burger, sashimi, and an assortment of pickles. The food was an 11/10. A perfect way to forget the slow drive and the kimchi fridge.
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| A good finish to a meal. Ice cream from Lawson. Staying near a conbini is a must. |