Day 6 From Suspension Bridges to City Blushes: Amagase to Kumamoto 19 Dec

The Game Plan:  

Today, we trade the quiet mountain mist of Amagase for the bustling streets of Kumamoto. On the itinerary? A high-altitude stroll across the legendary Kokonoe Yume Suspension Bridge—architectural eye candy at its best.

The goal is simple: survive the mountain hairpins, conquer the bridge, and reach Kumamoto in time for a triple-threat reward:

The legendary Kumamoto Castle, a local feast of Basashi (horse sashimi), a cozy basecamp for our upcoming adventure into the volcanic heart of Mount Aso.

Let the "soul-sucking" drive begin!

Saying goodbye to our Amagase ryokan was hard. The staff sent us off with enough bowing and waving to make us feel like visiting royalty!

Hairpins and High Bridges:


Pat took the wheel for the 30-minute dash to the Kokonoe Yume Bridge, tackling the mountain hairpins with such "enthusiasm" that even the car’s computer started beep-complaining!

We arrived at the bridge just as the tour buses unleashed a symphony of chaos. Between the crowds and some very off-key singing over the PA system, my zen was briefly tested. However, the views were lovely—two waterfalls cascading into the gorge, though the river below seemed to be taking a seasonal nap. After checking out the vantage points, we dodged the next wave of tour groups and made our getaway.

Million-Dollar Views (and 10-Cent Coffee):

Lunch at Yamanami Taho Kokonoe was simple, but the view of the mountain range under wispy cirrus clouds was worth a fortune. Unfortunately, our coffee stop at Makimoto Pass was the opposite: expensive and, well... let’s just say it was an "acquired taste" we didn't want to acquire.


The day’s highlight was the quirky topiary at Senbaru-shika Park—absolutely delightful! We also pulled over at the Shiroyama Scenic Overlook for a stunning patchwork view of the Aso range and green rice fields.

Hello, Kumamoto!  


Izakaya for the experience

After negotiating the Aso caldera and a bit of "Where is the hotel entrance?" drama, we finally made it to Kumamoto. Our room faces the castle—a total win! We sprinted to the City Hall Observatory just in time to see the sunset give the castle a beautiful evening blush.

The Nightly Roundup:

We hit the shopping arcades, though Pat’s driving-stamina was hitting zero while my shopping-stamina was just warming up. We tucked into an Izakaya dinner in Food Village (horse sashimi and oden!), which cost a princely 7,020¥ and left us in that weird state of being neither full nor hungry.

Naturally, we hit 7-11 to finish the night with our reliable custard dessert. Despite the castle forgetting to turn on its promised lights and a "soul-sucking" drive for Pat, the dry weather and great views made it a success.

The drive: