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If today had a theme song, it would be "The Scenic Route." We traded the canals of Yanagawa for the mountain mists of Amagase, with a few quirky pitstops and a lot of very slow driving in between!
Morning in Yame: The Town That Slept In
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| Yame |
Our first stop was Yame, an ancient trading town famous for its fire-resistant white-walled houses. Back in the day, these white walls were the ultimate "flex"—a sign of serious affluence.
We arrived at 10:00 AM, but apparently, Yame didn't get the memo that the workday had started. The town was in a deep slumber! We wandered the systematic streets, eventually finding signs of life at the local post office. Travel Tip: Sending love from Japan is a bargain! Only 100¥ to Australia and 280¥ to the UK.
Back at the Tourist Information Center, we watched some local school kids making washi (Japanese paper). Let’s just say patience isn’t a subject on the curriculum yet—there was some very "enthusiastic" tray-swishing involved! Before leaving, I committed a legal necessity: eating Matcha Ice Cream. Since Yame is famous for green tea, leaving without a scoop would have been a punishable offense.
The Need for Speed (Or Lack Thereof)
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The drive to Kurume was... meditative. Even after paying 500¥ for the expressway, we found ourselves on backroads capped at 30kmph. I never thought I’d be so thrilled to see a sign for 50kmph! I felt like a Formula 1 driver at school-zone speeds.
The reward? Kurume Taiho Ramen. This place is a well-oiled machine. You pick your ramen at a vending machine, grab a booth, and watch the chefs work their magic. No fuss, no delays, just incredible noodles (1800¥).
Views and Persimmons at Michinoeki Ukiha
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| Behind the rest stop |
Just 14 minutes away, we hit the famous Michinoeki Ukiha. This isn't your average roadside rest stop. Behind the building, the world opens up into a massive vista of the plains. Even with the fields turning brown for the season, the mountain backdrop was stunning. I could only imagine the sea of gold it must be in the summer! We grabbed some local dried persimmons—the perfect sweet souvenir to tuck into our suitcases.
The Grand Finale: Amagase Bliss
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We climbed deep into the mountains for an hour until we reached Amagase. And oh my goodness... Ukiha Bekkan Shishiyo Ryokan.
We were greeted by the manager and led to what is easily the most lavish room of our entire trip. To call it a "room" is an understatement. We have a bedroom (Japanese style double 33000¥) that fits five futons, a classic tatami living room, and the crown jewel: an open-air bath on the balcony that is literally the size of our study room at home!
A Feast for the Year
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| We were fed more food than we needed |
The pampering didn't stop at the architecture. We were escorted to a private dining room set up just for us. I honestly gave up counting the courses halfway through—I’m pretty sure we consumed enough nutrients to last us through the entire upcoming year! The Omakase (chef’s choice) was absolutely over-the-top. The best part? The breakfast tomorrow is going to be just as legendary.
Braving the Cold for the Ultimate Soak
We ended the day on the highest of notes. There is something incredibly soul-soothing about a sunken stone bath with steaming water, though the "wash up" process on the open balcony was “invigorating”. I almost became a human popsicle in the process.
The mountain air was biting, and while we might have gotten the "official" onsen procedure slightly wrong in our excitement, we didn't care. Scrubbing down in the chilly breeze before sliding into that massive hot bath was pure magic. I would do it again at the drop of a hat!
Between the white walls of Yame, the speed-demon 50kmph roads, and this incredible mountain sanctuary, it has truly been the stay of a lifetime.